Yves here. Because my cats who lived to be old (one died at 16 and the other, 18) were robust up to close to the end, I was probably not attentive to signs that they were aging and perhaps not as attentive to things I could have done as I might have been. One of them, Blake, had gotten thin but was still jumping up and down from counters, so I might have missed signs of arthritis. When he went in for a regular check, the doctor noticed that his lung capacity did not seem right and ordered an Xray, which showed a big white blob that the vet thought was probably cancer. I did not want to put him through more tests to firm that up since he really really hated going to the vet and there was not much that could be done if it was cancer. I put it out of my mind.
When his breathing became labored in early January, I took him to a different vet who had treated him when he was a kitten (I had changed vets to get him certified to go to Oz, which very few can do, and then decided against that; Blake had really taken a dislike her after the Xray and so I thought this might be a smidge less distressing). He remarked, “They found a pulmonary mass in May and he’s still alive?” I procrastinated a bit about putting him down and took him in for the little they could do in the way of palliatives. He was considerate enough to die the day before the his appointment for his terminal shot.
My other elderly cat, Gabriel, was similarly active up to his last 6 weeks or so (he died of bladder cancer). So I did not have to contend with frailty with either one. I imagine this is a big issue with dogs given their susceptibility to hip arthritis.
By Sara Hoummady, DMV, PhD, Associate professor in ethology and animal nutrition, UniLaSalle. Originally published at The Conversation
Geriatric veterinary care is in great shape, with dogs and cats living on average 11.3 years, according to French data. Our knowledge of how to accompany them in later life is expanding fast. We now know that simple changes can do wonders for an old cat or dog’s comfort and quality of life. The main trick is for pet owners not to stand by idly as their four-legged companions’ age.
At What Age Can My Dog or Cat Be Considered Old?
A study of over two million cats and four million dogs has enabled us to better define their different life stages.
Cats enter old age at around 10 years old. This period is then divided into mature, senior and super-senior stages.
The same study points out that it’s less uniform for dogs, for whom old age depends heavily upon size.
Small dogs (toy and small breeds weighing less than 9 kg, such as Chihuahuas or Cavalier King Charles Spaniels) enter their third age at around 7 years old, then become seniors at around 12 years old.
Medium to large dogs weighing more than 9 kg, such as Welsh Corgis, Golden Retrievers and Australian Shepherds, for example, reach this stage earlier: around 6.
Not to panic, however: the new stage needn’t mean that the end is near. Rather, it may just be time to pay greater attention to your pet and to gradually adjust their environment, medical and care routine to help them age in the best possible conditions.
What Is Healthy Ageing? How Can You Assess It in Your Pet?
But before we even talk about “healthy ageing”, it’s useful to recall what ageing is: a natural, gradual and inevitable process. Over time, animals become less tolerant of environmental stress and their cells accumulate damage, leading to various physiological changes.
So, what do we mean by a dog or cat ageing “in good health”? A recent consensus article in which I participated offers a definition adapted to our pets: an elderly animal in good health is one that retains sufficient capacity and resilience to meet its physical, behavioural, social and emotional needs, while maintaining a stable and positive relationship with its human.
Some signs are completely normal: greying hair, slight tartar build-up, thinner skin, and slightly duller senses–these bear no noticeable impact on quality of life.
On the other hand, mobility issues that hinder access to resources (difficulty getting up, climbing stairs or interacting easily with you) should not be considered simply as signs of ageing. The same goes with the first signs of cognitive dysfunction (a syndrome that has some similarities with Alzheimer’s disease) when a dog or cat struggles to find its food bowl or seems lost in the house, for example. These cases call for veterinary advice.
Quality of life therefore becomes the central criterion for assessing whether an animal is ageing harmoniously. In dogs and cats, the concept of frailty, derived from human geriatrics, is now used (see table below).
How Can You Assess Your Pet’s Frailty?**
Animals classified as frail are more prone to developing diseases and should be monitored more closely.
The major advantage of this approach is that, as in humans, frailty detected early can sometimes be mitigated. Hence the importance of regular screening and early support to best care for our elderly companions.
Some Adjustments To Be Made
The first step is to make the animal’s environment more accessible so that it can easily reach all its resources: food, water, resting and hiding spots, contact areas, etc. A few props and adjustments can make a real difference, including small steps to climb onto the sofa, armchairs, firm and low cushions, or raised bowls for dogs and cats suffering from osteoarthritis, etc.
Increasing the number of access points is also useful: two or three feeding areas, several places to sleep, and more litter trays that are easy to step over. Some commercial litter trays are too high for cats with osteoarthritis; a wide tray with a low rim can be much more comfortable.
Maintaining a calm and positive relationship is essential. Behaviour that is considered “undesirable” should always be investigated by a vet and a behaviourist (or a veterinary behaviourist): it may reflect a need, discomfort or difficulty. A cat that scratches the carpet rather than its scratching post, for example, may simply be looking for a less painful position. Some animals also become more anxious or reactive with age or certain medical conditions; it is therefore important to understand the cause rather than punish them, at the risk of damaging the relationship and failing to resolve the issue.
Cognitive and physical stimulation must continue, but adapted to the animal’s abilities. “Puzzle feeders” (or interactive bowls, where animals have to solve puzzles to get their food) are still useful, provided they are chosen according to the animal’s condition: a scratch mat or an interactive bowl that can be pushed by the nose are preferable to a system that requires complex leg movements. Games, learning and small training sessions are still beneficial; sometimes it is enough to shorten the sessions and use very enticing rewards (think small pieces of chicken breast or sausage, etc.).
Walks can be adapted, in particular by using comfortable and safe bags to carry the dog when it is too tired, either for part or all of the walk. The important thing is to continue to give the animal access to the outdoors.
Finally, diet is key when caring for older animals. Ageing leads to changes in digestion and a gradual loss of muscle mass. It is therefore recommended to choose a diet that is easily digestible, has a smell and taste that appeal to your pet, and is specifically formulated for the needs of senior animals. Raw meat should be avoided: it’s often unbalanced in terms of minerals, which can be harmful to older animals, who are particularly sensitive to excess phosphorus or inappropriate calcium/phosphorus ratios. They also present an increased health risk, as their immune systems are less effective.
On the other hand, combining dry food (kibble) and wet food (terrine, mousses, etc.) is often beneficial. A cooked, homemade meal (following the advice of a vet) can also help an animal regain its appetite. And for the fussiest eaters, a simple trick may suffice: warm the wet food slightly to enhance its smell and make it more appealing.
When Should You See Your Vet?
Regular vet check-ups are still essential, particularly to keep up to date with vaccinations and worming. Ageing weakens the immune system, making senior animals more vulnerable and requiring regular protection against infectious diseases and parasites.
Geriatric consultations aim to monitor the ageing process, which is unique to each individual. The first consultation is often the longest to allow for an in-depth discussion and include additional tests where necessary. These initial findings will serve as a reference for follow-up visits. Ideally, this monitoring should begin at the start of the third age. The frequency of consultations then depends on the animal’s trajectory: every six months if signs of frailty appear, or once a year if its condition remains stable.
The challenge is no longer just to extend the lifespan of our furry friends, but to, above all, prolong their health. After all, we want them to enjoy it as long as possible, much as we would for humans.
Our cat is now entering old age and is an outside cat. She is definitely going grey and has lower mobility than before. One well accepted by her item we accidentally introduced is a bakers rack on the front porch. A cardboard box with old clothes inside on the top tier is her preferred nest. This item is outside the front window of the computer niche. She has learned to summon her bipedal servants by scratching on the window pane when she hears the servants weaseling about inside. If you try and ignore her for a bit, she will begin to plaintively meow.
When other cats come around for whatever reason, she will run them off quickly. The same goes for smaller dogs. She is definitively an expert at sensing the moral and ethical levels of humans who come by. I have learned to trust her judgement of strangers.
If it gets really cold for here, such as below freezing at night, she comes inside and likes to sleep on my rolling computer chair. I have taken to putting an old cushion covered with an even older towel on the seat for her. She definitely prefers ratty old cloth items to newer clean ones for sleeping on. Being an outside cat, fleas are a problem. We have found that putting a desk lamp shining over a pie dish full of water in the room she uses seems to trap most of those pesky critters. They jump on up towards the light, fall away into the water and drown. You can see the results every morning.
I hope our Alien Overlords treat us as well when we begin to age out.
Stay safe, stay active, maintain personal integrity.
Hi Ambrit
From the vet you can get Advantage or Revolution, liquids with anti-flea meds, that you put on the back of the cat’s neck. They are pricey and I know that money is tight. The vet will tell you that they need to be applied every month. In practice, I dose my brood about four times a year which makes it manageable. They work well, and will keep you and your guard cat much more comfortable.
Thanks for the information. I might be able to swing that with Christmas money and all coming in.
Stay safe. Enjoy the furry lap warmers.
Advantage for Cats (be sure you get the kind for cats) is available without a vet’s prescription through a variety of retailers. I don’t know about Revolution. I think it is by prescription only. One of my previous cats (20 years old at the time) had a bad reaction to Revolution but tolerated Advantage well.
I have been using nitenpyram capsules for years. I found a place that sells them for a reasonable price, especially compared to Capstar. A capsule (or even a half capsule) sprinkled on their food every other day has kept the fleas down. (it can be given every day if you prefer).
The biggest negative is that it’s a neonicotinoid. I worry about that stuff getting into the environment.
Our medium sized dog is 17 years and 5 months and still manages to get around ok but has the usual hip arthritis, and occasional seizures while sleeping. We had a crisis about a year ago where he had his neck sort of get paralyzed for seemingly no reason and the vet gave him daily Candilat, which worked like a miracle. We also give him Locox for his joints, it seems to have an effect, but is lessening as time goes on. He’s much more comfortable and aware of his surroundings than before the Candilat though. He recognizes people he knows, barks, and greets them, even runs a bit if he sees a cat or rabbit in the yard. He can go on a 2 km walk around the lake and still jump into the backseat of the car as well. We’ve been very consistent with regular vet visits and vaccines, worm pills, etc., over his life. Only veterinary food since we adopted him at 16 weeks old. Very limited treats. Nothing salty or sweet. He’s an inside dog by nature and training, and he would never accept being left outside for more time than it takes for him to take care of his needs. It’s a miracle to us that he’s still alive.
Male cats seem prone to bladder and kidney issues in old age. My cat Ace lived until 19, but we had to spike him with fluids regularly for his kidney problems. I am trying to avoid this with my cat Omar. I don’t feed him any dry food. I consider it all to be toxic. He gets only turkey and salmon wet food. I have taken to mixing it with three teaspoons of standard issue seafood stock to make sure he gets plenty of fluids. As they say in Maine…so fah, so good.
We had a cat I adopted off the street who we gave Purina kibble and he had some issues, including diabetes if I remember correctly. The vet convinced me to give our subsequent cats wet food the vast majority of the time with some dry food thrown on occasion to help clean their teeth, and suggested the Wellness brand. The vet pointed out that cats eat meat, and a lot of the kibble was grain filler which in unnatural for cats and could lead to diabetes, which made sense to me. So we figured we’d pay a little more for good food and hopefully prolong the cats’ lives and maybe save on vet bills in their later years, and that seemed to work out OK.
We now have two younger cats and the current vet thinks they are overweight (I disagree), and she managed to convince my better half to buy weight loss food for them which the vet sells directly. The stuff costs $100/bag and it’s dry kibble. I have a hard time believing this weight loss food is helping anything but the vet’s bank account. But I could be wrong. Anybody else have this experience with vet recommendations?
Not vet recommendations for weight so much, but experience with a diabetic cat, who I managed eventually with just food choices (for years). Unless it is freeze dried food, there is no way that that food is good for weight loss although that might justify the cost. And if it is freeze dried there will be hydration issues. Kibble, even the so-called healthy brands are high carbohydrate because you need that for the process to get kibble not just for profit margins. And once again it is also hard on the hydration.
While the best choices for diabetes do not work for every cat, it still might be worth looking up the various information resources that are out there. This community is obsessed with the real nutritional information of cat food since it is vital for their beloved pets and so much of it is left off the label. If they have your special vet recommended diet kibble, it may be enlightening.
Cats tend to lose their sense of smell as they age, and their appetites are strongly connected to the scent of food.
When our guy Bandersnatch got older and seemed to be losing his appetite, the vet suggested we add hot water to his wet food to aerosolize the excellent flavors — and it worked like a charm! That got him five more years of good life, and he lived until just a few days short of his 20th birthday. You don’t want the water so hot that it might burn the cat, but the food and bowl are usually pretty cool, so it can be pretty warm when you add the water — but don’t add so much that you dilute the deliciousness, try to create an irresistible slurry that can be lapped up.
That’s the thing about cats and dogs. They come into our lives, usually as kittens or puppies, and they are with us their entire lives. Then as the years pass we see the effects of age telling on them and we know what is eventually going to happen. So all we can do is help them in their final years and never abandon them. Sort of like a do onto others. But when they do go, we usually find that they have left paw-prints on our hearts.
You were a good cat, Spooky. Still miss you.
I’ve had many cats all adopted (many when adults). My last group lived to 21, two at 17 and one at 18. All males. My current two are 17 and 15 next year. The 17 year old has early stage kidney disease diagnosed this year (prescription diet has helped him very much – weight back up). The 15 year old has a low grade heart murmur diagnosed this year (no dietary changes needed yet).
The absolute best way to live to a happy old age is to be an indoor cat with access to a completely safe outdoor space (we’ve had catios). They need the stimulation but not the risks of free range (disease from birds and small critters they kill) and they kill too many things or get into expensive vet visit fights with other cats. My previous four were outdoors initially but brought to live indoors when the risk of being eaten by coyotes increased and I wish I’d done it sooner. The current two have been 100% indoors with a catio since their adoptions.
One in each group had a propensity to develop crystals in the urine so prescription food has been the mainstay for forever as well. Kidney disease is common for old cats no matter the diet because they generate highly concentrated urine and that system is delicate and intense.
Raw food I wouldn’t do these days with bird flu issues but the times I did try it were disastrous – only the prescription food that breaks apart crystal formation for the one cat keeps the urethra from blocking and requiring emergency vet care. I am not a fan of the canned or dry food for cats, prescription or otherwise, but I can reluctantly say prescription diets have kept my cats healthy and comfortable so they can experience active long lives.
These will be my last two (assuming I can hold to that as life without them is a void). Vet care is hard to come by with all the private equity parasitism in the sector these days (Canada) and the costs of providing whatever they need including ever more expensive food options means to give them the best life requires a level of wealth that will be beyond reach for me. I will try to fill the void by supporting our local SPCA.
When my 15 year old cat died last year, I swore I would not get another one. I have a very serious illness and thought it would be best if I went without a cat since I don’t know how much longer I’ll be around. Well, that resolve lasted about a month until I met a little rescue kitty who let me know my cat lady days weren’t over yet. She immediately love bombed me and I’ve been her devoted servant ever since. I’m convinced she helps keep me alive because I have to get up every morning to feed her. She brings so much joy and love into my life.
Now, if I could just get her to eat wet food…
My tortie rescue cat (she’s about two years old now) refuses to eat anything but Purina Indoor dry food. I know it’s not good for her. Wet food is much better for cat kidneys. But I have tried all kinds of wet foods (different brands, flavors, textures, ones with gravy, etc.) but no, she won’t eat even a bite. She also hates tuna, which I have tried as a topping on wet food. Right now, as a young cat, she is healthy but over time, her kidneys will suffer from a dry food only diet. I don’t know what to do. I’ve had lots of cats over the years and all of them preferred wet food to dry. Not this girl. What to do?
Have you tried Fancy Feast? The vet refers to it as kitty crack because it is flavoured by rotten sardines (yum).
I thought Temptaions treats was kitty crack?
Our vet calls it kitty doritos~
Thank you. I will try the Fancy Feast. I didn’t know about the rotten sardines but I have heard that cats love “stinky” food the best!
my guys love the seafood paté the best – definately stinky. yum
My last cat and my 2 current ones have always been on dry food. My last girl made it to 18. She had no kidney issues. My current girl is 15 and in fine fettle, my boy is 9 and doing well. I think the quality of the food matters.
Here’s an excellent resource on cat nutrition, including how to transition from dry to wet food (it’s a gradual process but worth the effort) https://catinfo.org/
Cats become addicted to dry food because it’s grain sprayed with heavy flavor. Like putting a bowl of buttered popcorn out. Lacking real nutrients, the cat keeps eating more and more, causing obesoty, diabetes, and kidney disease. Once you see the symptoms, the damage is already done.
This site, by L.Pierson DVM, has been translated into many languages, easy to share.
2 out of 5 of the hair’m are still around, with my favorite Einstein (brains of the outfit) and yours truly the same age in cat years: 12 & 1/2.
All of the staff @ the all cats and no cattle ranch are indoor-outdoor felines, and Einstein remains a stone cold killer who eats what he dispatches. (minus intestines et al, left on the back patio for me to clean up dutifully-I wonder if Jeffrey Dahmer had a similar au pair?)
My cats seem to make it to sweet 16 and that’s all she wrote, not bad for being outside a lot of the day, only to nestle on my lap afterwards with very content purring occurring.
I apologize; it is insensitive to ask, but could Blake the cat have had an autopsy? Blake had an undiagnosed pulmonary mass that was presumably cancer. For the sake of discussion, could it have been something else, a fungal infection like coccidiomycosis (Valley Fever), or an unusual inflammatory condition? Most animal autopsies are done in food animals, but there is a literature about autopsies for pets https://vetexplainspets.com/cat-autopsy-cost/# and https://smalldogsheaven.com/should-i-get-an-autopsy-on-my-dog/ The emotional issues about autopsies of pet owners and patient’s caregivers are similar.
Medical autopsies in important ways differ from forensic autopsies. The medical autopsy is in decline. The numbers done are fewer and fewer, and trainees in pathology do so few, that many are not competent to do them well. A review from the Yale School of Medicine “What Gets Lost when Autopsies Aren’t Done? Not Just Cause of Death” http://medicine.yale.edu/news-article/what-gets-lost-when-autopsies-arent-done-not-just-cause-of-death from which I quote, details the state of the medical autopsy and its place in medical practice and science.
The medical autopsy rate defined as the number of autopsies per number of autopsies per number of hospital deaths has declined since the 1950s when the hospital autopsy rate was 50%. By 1972 the rate was 19.1%. Currently the rate is as low as 5%. One reason for the decline is that the Joint Commission removed the requirement for a rate of 20-25% for hospital accreditation in 1971. Some hospitals currently do no autopsies.
The article lists reasons why medical autopsies are still worth doing. These include providing meaningful information and education, understanding diseases including new ones like Covid, as a source for tissue for medical research, quality assurance and medical errors. I add the evaluation of new treatments including medical devices. Medical devices receive less regulatory scrutiny than new drugs for approval.
I may be older than the articles’ authors, but the help of autopsies in understanding HIV, AIDS was crucial.
Many pathologists due to a fear of accidental infection declined to do autopsies of AIDS patients. This was a fear I shared. On day at the teaching hospital where I worked, I did two AIDS autopsies plus the harvesting of the brain of a Creutzfeldt -Jakob patient. One of the AIDS patients was a case of blood transfusion acquired infection related to coronary bypass surgery. The second was a case of the rare prior to HIV, Kaposi’s sarcoma that also had ascites. Putting my gloved hands into the chilled fluid filled abdominal cavity gave the concerning sensation that my hands were wet despite double gloving.
Many pathologists refuse to do potential C-J autopsies. In the past at least as part of a research program at the University of Michigan, they would arrange for a possible C-J victims’ body to be picked up and taken to Ann Arbor for autopsy there.
There is much more to discuss about specific points of the article. My personal view is that autopsies are still needed but they are best suited to research hospitals in support of teaching and research. They are a lot of work, but a reward is being able to occasionally solve puzzles.
Most vets we’ve had seem uninterested in doing necropsies. We had one done once on a dog with hemangiosarcoma, so that samples could be sent to a research program on that disease. We also had one done once on a goat who proved to have squamous cell carcinoma.
If I were a vet, I would do necropsies at cost or even for free for owners who were willing and interested, but, of course, there are many (if not most) owners who would be horrified a the prospect. I think you could learn a lot if there were more done.
If you get your animal from the pound/rescue, most likely they won’t know how old they are. We adopted two former street dogs in Arizona. The very kind lady who had rescued them said they were ‘about 2’. Well, they were probably 6 or 7. Shadow died of kidney failure (a good way to go). Strider went blind and got dementia, but still enjoyed his meals.
As long as they get up and want their breakfast, your animals are in good shape!
Now we have two more rescues, Woody and Shy – they were pupplies when we got them, so we know more or less how old they are.
The animal shelter awaits you, gentle commentators!
Thanks for this post.
Our dog, guesstimated to be about two when we adopted him almost 12 years ago, has benefited from two things in his older years. His T4 levels began to decline about two years ago and although they were still within “low normal” range, our vet agreed to supplement him with low dose thyroxine. This produced a noticeable improvement in energy and mental alertness. He also has some mobility issues apparently due to neurological issues (his x-rays amazingly show no signs of arthritis). Pain medications made a slight improvement but caused GI issues, but we have found that CBD oil once a day is as or more effective than meds.
We’ve had several cats over the years with renal disease. The most useful thing for keeping them comfortable during the later stages was learning how to give them subQ fluids at home several times a week. They tolerated it well, it helped to keep the dehydration they otherwise suffer at bay, and they lived longer and more comfortably as a result.
Very interesting article and much appreciated for reposting/discussing.
Our doberman-staffordshire-bulldog mix (who looks just like a doberman with a white spot on her chest) turns 12 in January. So far, so good. She’s had both knees repaired via TPLO, the most recent when she had just turned 11 (normally not something you’d do at that age unless the pet is in very good and vigorous health) and is very alert, active, and engaged.
One thing perhaps missed in the article regarding dogs signs of aging are ‘lipomas’ or fatty, fleshy or somewhat hard lumps that develop under the skin, usually more often with larger dogs, and especially large purebreds. These can be worrisome, especially depending on the size and location on the dog’s body. Ours has had them since we first adopted her at age 6 and we had a couple of really large ones removed over the first few years. She continues to develop them, but most reach a certain size and hardness and just stop changing. Our vet checks them out every time we take her in, has done a couple of biopsies out of an abundance of caution, and so far no recent recommendations to remove any (which always entails full anesthesia – not good for older pets).
Does anyone else have experience with worrisome or large lumps at older ages and what has your vet recommended?
Lastly, I’d like to add excessive licking of objects or furniture to the list of signs that your dog may be in pain and has no way of communicating it to you. We’ve seen this in our dog as well as those of friends, and when your dog suddenly starts licking things *excessively*, especially if this wasn’t normal prior, they could be in pain. That was the reason we took ours in for what ended up being one of her TPLO surgeries.
We generally don’t have lipomas removed, and our vets would only recommend it if they are in a location that could affect nerves if they grew too large, such as in an armpit, or if the dog is otherwise uncomfortable because of it. We also had a dobie mix who was prone to lipomas.
Very good point about excessive licking. Another sign of pain is trembling, which can be misinterpreted as thinking your pet is scared or cold. Cats sometimes self-comfort by purring when in pain.
Ugh. One of the bigger ones is in fact in her front right armpit. It hasn’t grown any more, but it’s one of the softer ones, and thus (in my mind?) more likely to rupture and perhaps cause sepsis, even suddenly? Our vet is great but she doesn’t really dwell on stuff like that especially for elderly dogs, which a lot of otherwise caring vets seem prone to just have the mindset of “well, she’s been with you this long, just enjoy what time you have left….”
So far I don’t think the large lipoma in the armpit is causing any lack of range of motion or discomfort, but again – I guess that’s why we talk about this stuff – because *they* can’t!
Anyway thanks for the reply, and yep – trembling -and- toe tapping (which is similar but not the same) is another definite sign of pain that the animal is unable to communicate or is trying to deal with. Toe tapping was the reason we took her in for an examination that led to the 2nd TPLO surgery and absolutely, she trembled and uncharacteristically winced in otherwise normal situations in a manner that caused us some alarm.
Hopefully, your girl’s lipomas will remain stable and not cause nerve impingement or rupture. In case of rupture, you’d have no choice but to do surgery, so fingers crossed it never happens. We’ve never had a lipoma rupture, but we have had sebaceous cysts rupture and require surgery. Not pretty, but recovery went well.
Interesting about the toe tapping. Our TPLO dogs all went three-legged lame. Good for you catching things early!
Hope your girl stays happy and healthy for years to come. Dobie mixes are sweethearts.
ok, second attempt, computer keeps failing. I feel Im an expert on senior animals, have 29, 3 cats over 20, 4 mid teens, 6 dogs over 12, and 10 horses over 25. I know sounds irresponsable. Real fast, My sister and i started a small sanctuary 501c3, after we stopped racing harness horses, maybe explains the horses. Anyways fast forward, horribly she was killed by a texting driver new years eve 2018.Losing someone that close to you leaves one with survivor guilt, its hard to get past. I continued running the rescue, then the pandemic came and US customs seized my for profit businesses goods, acused me of IPT, still pending a supplemental appeal 4 years later. It was a bluetooth license issue, i have the license, it was unaknowledged, oh well such is life. Problem was and continues to be, that business supported the animals, and ive been unable to find an alternative income source. On to the animals, yes veterinarian care and nutrition, thats what probably got these animals such long lives. Plus good surroundings, though today, when these seniors most need it, im unfortunately unable to provide. Precarity is unavoidable in my situation,,im disabled as well, a cripple, waiting to get that small income. Unfortunately for these animals i havent a network, which is obviously the key to successfully doing what ive done, up to now, myself. .Thus stressfull crisis is my reality. People surely have it worst, so i do feel guilty complaining, yet how to steer the waiting catastrophe, im failing to navigate, is beyond perplexing. Certainly wish more animal lovers understood MMT, because Moslers Job Guarrantee would likely include small sanctuarys like mine. Also laws like Germanys animal welfare law that prohibits euthanasia for convenience, are great examples for compassionate motivations. USA is too profit worshipping, its so sad to see all these puppy mills advertising their branded and marketed muts of the latest fancy for thousands, people can then instagram their latest xmas purchase. while thousands in shelters are euthanized, for yes, convenience. Some sanctuarys do well on social media raising funds, most dont. Thankless if isolated, eventually turning into a hoarding situation, probably more often than the opposite, where well intentioned, adequately funded operations continue their good deeds. Anyways, sorry for the negativity, holidays and all, i know this is probably against the rules, but any ideas or connections to find these 29 senior animals a better caretaker than I, would be appreciated. I have all kinds of ideas, just nobody to pitch that is interested. Such is the fate of so many awesome pets that fall through the many holes our market fetished dystopia allows.. Especially horses, they are super expensive. Veterinarian costs have skyrocketed over the past 10 years, way more than inflation rates.
I home cook all our dog (and until she died at 22 cat’s meals) – usually a combination of what we are having, whats coming in in the garden minus the allergens like onions, and something to make it animal delectable like chicken bone broth.
Anyway, if you would like to go it without the toxins in dog food – same type of companies that produced ultra-processed human food that leads to disease:
https://balance.it/recipes
is a major asset. I use kelp granules (organic) and a dog vitamin powder to ensure I am not missing something critical (micro-nutrient). It reversed a downward spiral on our cat and gave her an extra year. Yves, if you would like to move the link into the article intro, more people will see it. After several years, our new vet (holistic) did a complete blood workup and was very happy with our princess’s health.
Thanks for the article. We love our pets! Here are a few tips for cat-owners.
NUTRITION:
https://catinfo.org/ is an excellent resource on cat nutrition, including how to transition from dry to wet food (it’s a gradual process). The site, by L.Pierson DVM, has been translated into many languages.
Cats become addicted to dry food because it’s grain sprayed with heavy flavor. Cats can’t even digest carbs like dogs and humans can. Lacking real nutrients, the cat keeps eating more and more, causing obesoty, diabetes, and kidney disease. Once you see the symptoms, the damage is already done.
KIDNEY Disease
Cats should, but don’t, drink enough water. In fact, if your cat hangs over the bowl drinking a lot, it likely has kidney problems. To prevent this, add water to wet food. Swish about 1/3 can of water around and add to food. It can prolong life by years. Anything liquid (broth, soups, stews), added or alone, is good.
FLEAS:
Add powdered (1 teaspoon) brewers yeast to wet food. It is full of Vit B and the cat starts to taste bad to fleas if you add it consistently.
Also, food-grade diatomaceous earth (silica) is very cheap and can be brushed or rubbed through the cat’s coat. The fleas dry up and die. Harmless. Can be added to cat’s food (1/2 teasp) or your own OJ in the morning if parasites are suspected. Can also spray it into corners, baseboard, mattress, box springs etc. for bedbugs or other infestations. The bugs die of dehydration. Home Depot has 4 lb bag for $9.
GREAT BOOK – “THe Natural Cat – Comprehensive guide to optimum cat care” by Anitra Frazier. Many simple, effective, holistic, and medical ways to diagnosis and treat problems.
Thank you for the suggestions and the link. I know my two year old cat needs to eat wet food because dry food is junk that will eventually wreck her kidneys and cause other health problems. I’ve had cats all my life but this one is very stubborn. Every time I feed her dry food, I think, “How can she prefer this junk?”. It seems like the equivalent of a person eating dry corn flakes for every meal. Yuck.
I’ve tried topping wet food with tuna (she hates tuna) or topping it with Gerber baby food chicken (she hates that too). I also crushed Temptations treats (which she likes) on as a topping but no luck. The only wet food she will eat is Delectables Chicken squeeze treats. She would eat that all day if I let her (I don’t). I’ve used it as a topping and, clever little vixen she is, she licks it off, leaves the food and trots away like she’s won the big game, which she has. Mixing it into the wet food doesn’t work either. Drives me nuts. I haven’t tried Parmesan cheese as a topping. Will do that this week.
I’m going to use the other suggestions from the vet in your link. I hope it works. I get the feeling this will be my major project for 2026. I love this cat but she rules the world. I am but her humble servant. She’s lying on my chest right now and I can’t move. I have become a bed.
Dear Bed…I mean, Lena, your cat sounds like a very tough case. Dr.Pierson’s method for gradually changing them over is VERY gradual. It’s not a quick fix and requires patience. She documents a case study. You are right saying “It seems like the equivalent of a person eating dry corn flakes for every meal. Yuck.” I usuallly say buttered popcorn or potato chips but it’s the same thing. Yummy but empty.
Some commenters say their cat lived 18 years and only ate dry food. No doubt true. Your girl could be one of these, but statistically the odds are not in her favor.
All the best,
Sheila
I recently heard a podcast where a host described one of her family’s Christmas present quirks: all presents are sent by deceased pets. Here’s how it works: Dad gets a present for Mom, and writes the tag “from Pookie to Mom” where Pookie was a beloved former cat. All of the presents are tagged this way.
Lovely idea. They’re always with us. As Rev Kev (or someone) said, they leave their pawprints on our hearts.