“Let Them Eat Donkey Meat”: Javier Milei’s Economic “Miracle” Enters New Phase

“Argentina should focus on what it is ‘inherently competitive’ at: agriculture, mining, oil and gas. What God has given us.”

When it comes to cattle ranching and beef production, Argentina is a global powerhouse, with its vast, fertile Pampas plains, high-quality grass-fed beef (though standards appear to be slipping), and cultural tradition of gauchos. But the local populace is increasingly being priced out of the market as the price of beef surges at double the rate of headline inflation.

While headline annual was 32.6% in March 2026, the price of meat saw increases of between 55% and 61%, depending on the region of the country. It’s hardly a surprise, then, that beef consumption fell 10% month on month. According to recent data, beef consumption in Argentina has fallen to 20-year lows of around 47.3 – 49.9 kg per capita per year.

In fact, the price of meat has risen so sharply in recent months that Argentina’s faux libertatrian President Javier Milei even made reference to the phenomenon last week following the latest release of monthly inflation figures. According to the Institute of Statistics and Census (INDEC), inflation increased 3.4% in March 2026, its highest level in the past 12 months.

That figure represented a sharp increase on February (2.9%). It was also the tenth consecutive month of month-on-month increases in inflation. On an annual basis, inflation is now as high as 32.6%. Granted, that’s still much lower than it was 27 months ago when Milei took over the reins and sent inflation to the moon with a 52% devaluation of the Argentine peso, but the mere fact that it is once again rising on a consistent basis is a major cause for concern.

Also, keep in mind that these inflation figures are much lower than they should be, as is the case in most countries. The basket for calculating the consumer price index (CPI) in Argentina is based on a consumption survey from 2004/5, which leaves out profound changes in the structure of household expenditures that have taken place over the past 20 years.

Amazingly (or then, perhaps not), every government of the past two decades has refused this approach out of fear that it would result in much higher inflation numbers. Milei had promised to break this cycle, but then chickened out. Applying the new CPI model would make Argentine inflation seem even higher, the Central Bank of the Republic of Argentina (BCRA) acknowledged.

After the latest release of inflation data, a rather desperate Milei said: “If we take core inflation and remove the effect of meat, it is the same as last month at 2.5%.”

But every crisis presents an opportunity. And that opportunity has so far been to the benefit of producers of cheaper meats and other key sources of protein, such as pork, chicken and eggs, which saw record sales last year. But their prices are also surging, leaving many consumers and businesses struggling to keep up. More and more customers are having to pay on credit, a Buenos Aires-based butcher tells Página 12:

“Food is also beginning to be paid in instalments. You restructure the sale. People then went from buying beef… to pork or chicken.”

These conditions have presented an opening for producers of a more niche product: Patagonian donkey meat. Last week, an open tasting of barbecued donkey was held at a local grill in the province of Chabut. The main attraction was that the meat was selling for just under a third of equivalent cuts of beef. Besides making bank, the apparent aim of the tasting was to challenge cultural perceptions of this, until now, overlooked and underused foodstuff.

Personally speaking, I have never, at least knowingly, eaten donkey meat, and would be intrigued to hear the opinions of readers who have. In some parts of the world donkey is apparently considered a delicacy, including parts of China (Gansu province and the bordering areas of Xinjiang, Qinghai, Ningxia and Inner Mongolia) “where it is revered as the earthly equivalent to dragon meat”, writes Laura Kelly in her book, The Silk Road Gourmet:

Donkey meat is also available in Beijing, Shanghai and most big cities in between, but Gansu is the epicenter of donkey cuisine and where the most delicious dishes can be found. I sampled several donkey dishes, but by far the most delicious was the Donkey with Yellow Noodles (lurou huangmian) had in Dunhuang.

The meat is tender, sweet and delicious. It tastes nothing like pork or beef. For obvious reasons, it does taste a little like horse, only it is sweeter and more tender, and like horse and many hoofy game meats it is also low in fat and high in protein. In addition to tasting good and being a healthy meat, it is also, very inexpensive, which I am sure adds to its popularity.

Whether the same will be true of gaucho Argentina remains to be seen. The footage below, of an Argentine journalist grimacing her way through a tasting session, is unlikely to change public perceptions.

Even if the public appetite for donkey meat were to suddenly rise, producers would still face regulatory obstacles to being able to sell their product nationwide, reports Colombia’s El Tiempo. But Milei’s famed chainsaw would no doubt make quick work of any impediments, especially if well-connected business figures began investing in donkey farms.

Milei’s government has already slashed regulations for more established meat industries. The resulting lax practices have already resulted in the suspension of imports of Argentine beef by Chile over health safety concerns. China, the biggest buyer of Argentine beef, also recently suspended imports from the ArreBeef meatpacking plant due to the alleged presence of the antibiotic chloramphenicol, which has been banned in many countries for decades.

The US, meanwhile, is buying more Argentine beef than ever before, thanks to Trump’s recent decision to expand US beef imports well above WTO quotas, despite the disastrous effects it could have on US producers. Lori Wallach, the director of Rethink Trade, describes the contentious move as a favour for Trump’s “rightwing Argentine leader buddy”.

The sudden interest in donkey meat comes at a delicate time for Milei’s government. Following a spate of scandals, including the $LIBRA meme coin scandal involving Milei and his sister, Karina, the government’s approval ratings have sunk to 36%. Meanwhile, the economy shows no sign of turning the corner.

As the Wall Street Journal acknowledges, the recent gains in oil and gas production — largely the result of investments made in infrastructure by previous governments —  and mining, particularly lithium and copper, have done little to lift the domestic economy:

Investment in job-creating sectors such as manufacturing and services remains weak, and unemployment has risen.

Argentina now resembles “two different economies living in one,” said Mauricio Monge, senior Latin America economist at Oxford Economics: a fast-growing export sector alongside a stagnating domestic one. Inflation, while sharply lower, is still high by international standards.

The resurgence of inflation has called into question what was until now considered the Milei government’s most important achievement, notes El País:

The price increases, together with the rise in unemployment, the increase in labour informality (it’s already at 43%), the fall in consumption and the purchasing power of wages paint a critical scenario for the Executive: the polls coincide in the observation of a growing social unrest with the direction of the economy and a marked loss of support for the president.

Milei has recognized, in part, the problems and has asked for “patience” from Argentines. But, at the same time, he has insisted that he will not modify his economic plan in any way.

“The chainsaw does not stop,” he said Tuesday at the annual meeting of the American Chamber of Business in Argentina (AmCham). “We are going to continue cutting public spending to be able to continue lowering taxes because taxes are theft […] We are going to take all the pesos off the street until the inflation rate collapses […] We are not going to give an inch in monetary policy, we are not going to give an inch in continuing to deregulate,” he reiterated. “We are going to tie ourselves to the mast of the ship, we are not going to listen to the siren songs.”

Argentina is still massively in hock the IMF, which just approved the disbursement of an additional $1 billion from the $20 billion bailout agreed in April 2025. That came just months before the $20 billion currency swap provided by the US Treasury Department in the run-up to the country’s mid-term elections in November. From the El País article:

With this disbursement, the South American country will have received about 15,000 of the 20,000 million agreed in April last year. Argentina is the largest debtor of the IMF and its obligations to the multilateral increased by 36% in the last twelve months: in total, its debt exceeds 57,000 million dollars.

As the debt continues to rise, the Milei government insists that conditions are about to significantly improve. As they have been saying for the past two years, recovery is just round the corner.

“We are entering a virtuous process in which I believe that, starting in April, the next 18/20 months are probably going to be the best that Argentina has seen in recent decades,” said Economy Minister Luis Caputo last Tuesday in his presentation to the business forum of the United States Chamber of Commerce in Argentina.

Caputo is not only a serial debtor, having already played a key role in the collapse of the Macri government’s finances that resulted in a $50 billion bailout in 2018, he is also, like almost every other senior figure in the Economy Ministry and central bank, a former JP Morgan banker. And it is the bankers who are arguably benefiting most from the Milei government’s model, whose monetary policy continues to provide fast and easy “carry trade” returns for speculators.

One of the reasons Caputo cited for his optimism about Argentina’s economic future is Milei’s global brand:

“[T]he president is one of the three most important world leaders, the Argentine case generates admiration in the world and that is a kind of shortcut to investments.”

As delusions go, this is a particularly strong one. Milei may be lauded in Israel and among certain segments of the far right in Europe, Latin America and North America. As we noted last August, even many libertarians and Austrian economists are pillorying Milei’s economic program.

Meanwhile, investments are not just not coming to Argentina, they are actively leaving the country. Last year was the first year on record (going back 22 years, through multiple financial crises) that foreign direct investment in Argentina actually went negative, as a wave of international companies sold their operations to local companies.

Over the past year or so, we have covered Argentina’s rampant deindustrialisation under Milei in some detail. We have outlined how extractive sectors such as finance, mining and oil and gas have grown while industry and commerce have collapsed. In an article for Die Zelt, the development economist Patrick Kaczmarczyk provides added detail (machine translation):

Physical production shows how an economy really is doing more reliably than any GDP estimate. Argentina Industry shrank by 7.9 percent between 2023 and 2025, according to an evaluation of UN industry data. It is the second largest decline among 56 countries surveyed worldwide. Only in Hungary was the decline even greater at 8.2 percent. In the same period, however, Brazil’s industry grew by 3.5 percent, Chile’s by 5.2 percent and Peruvian by 6.5 percent. In Colombia and Mexico, industrial production fell by less than one percent. In view of these figures, it cannot be said that global factors alone explain the Argentine crash.

Data from Argentina’s statistics agency Indec from January show that the situation continues to deteriorate. The entire industry is now using only 53.6 percent of its capacity. In autumn, the occupancy rate was still a good 61 percent. The slump is hitting precisely those sectors that stand for vertical integration and employment. In the automotive industry, only 24 percent of capacities are still being used – three out of four machines are at a standstill. Vehicle production slumped by 30 percent. In mechanical engineering, capacity utilization is 31 percent.

Francisco Paoltroni, a senator from Milei’s ruling party, articulated the underlying philosophy with disarming frankness: Argentina should focus on what it is “inherently competitive” at: agriculture, mining, oil and gas. What God has given us.” But the fact that economies that rely on the extraction of raw materials do not create broad prosperity or economic resilience is one of the oldest findings of development economics. But it does not appear in Milei’s worldview.

Instead, the focus is almost exclusively on the extractive industries already mentioned and the exportation of their products to foreign markets. On the positive side, the balance of payments has improved as exports rise and imports stagnate, due to collapsing internal demand and industrial production. However, even as the balance of payments has improved under Milei, the central bank’s coffers are still dangerously low.

In recent months, Caputo has signed fresh agreements with the three main multilateral organisations that are keeping the Argentine economy afloat (IMF, World Bank and the Interamerican Development Bank). This should provide a brief period of relative stability. But with $30 billion of redemptions due in 2027 as well as general elections, which tend to create greater financial stress, the government needs to build up foreign exchange reserves fast.

However, most of the reserves the government accumulates end up being used to service its gargantuan debt with the IMF and other lending institutions. Unless it is able to build up a strong enough buffer, the inevitable question arises: when will the next bailout — number 22 — come? My guess is it will be some time in the run-up to next year’s elections, though it could come sooner as global economic and financial conditions deteriorate.

Just as importantly, where will the next bailout come from: the IMF, which is already dangerously exposed to Argentine debt (as readers may recall, some senior IMF staffers were so opposed to the last bailout, almost exactly a year ago, that they were willing to walk away from their jobs), the US Treasury, or a combination of both, as happened last year?

Also, what will the lenders demand for as collateral?

As we have discussed previously, Argentina boasts considerable mineral wealth (including shale oil and gas, lithium, gold, silver, rare earths and uranium), and has already signed a critical minerals deal with the Trump administration. Washington also has its sights set on Ushuaia, for two obvious reasons: the Patagonian city is the primary gateway to Antarctica and also sits astride the Drake’s Passage, the Americas’ second bioceanic passage after the Panama Canal.

One last warning sign before signing off: the latest official data from the BCRA, showing that delinquent bank loans tripled in 2025, suggests that serious strains are growing in the domestic banking system. The proportion of households in arrears went from historically low levels to figures that have not been since since the 2001 crisis, according to the BCRA’s official survey.

The deterioration was particularly pronounced in credit card debt, where the percentage of delinquencies almost doubled in just six months to December, and in personal loans, reports Infobae. Given the chronic persistence of the main driving forces — positive real interest rates, high (and rising) inflation, falling real wages, rising unemployment and overall rising precarity — this trend is unlikely to change anytime soon.

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22 comments

  1. vao

    The automatic spell-checker struck again:

    “having already playing a key role in the collapse of the Macro government’s finances”

    Macri, of course.

  2. Afro

    Sad, I visited Buenos Aires in 2010 and I recall the steak being amazing. And affordable. It’s a part, or was a part, of their culture.

  3. Carsten

    Is there anyone who still thinks that Milei is actually solving Argentina’s problems, or are they still deluding themselves that the pain is still only temporary, because then they’d have to admit they fell for a conman that is looting the state for him and his buddies?

    1. Nick Corbishley Post author

      There are still plenty of Argentines who support the Milei government. His approval rating may have fallen sharply in recent months but around one third of the population still appears to support him. The level of delusion is at times breathtaking. Twitter is full of interviews of young people who openly admit that their lives are now much difficult than they were prior to Milei — they’ve lost their jobs, their homes, are now living with their parents again, and are considering moving abroad, like so many millions of Argentines, etc. — yet they still blame everything on the Peronistas (who do carry some blame for Argentina’s economic malaise, just not all of it). There was one really entertaining video of a young guy popping across the border into Lula-governed Brazil to do some shopping, at a steep discount (Argentina is now much more expensive than Brazil), while complaining about how left-wing governments always end up destroying the economy.

      1. veronius

        While in Medellin last year, I got into a discussion about Milei’s performance with an American student who had been in Argentina. I was enumerating the negatives I was aware of, and he actually cited the fact that more and more Argentines lucky enough to find jobs have to hold down two jobs as evidence that “they’re doing better financially than the figures show” because they don’t report the second source of income.

    2. bertl

      Margaret Thatcher’s ghost is probably pretty impressed by his handiwork, George Osborne must be bursting with admiration, and Useless an’ fonda Lyin’ is likely chewing the carpet in envy.

  4. JMH

    The Argentine debt crisis never disappears from the “front pages” for long. My memory goes back to. Juan Peron in the 1940s and 1950s. What is the secret? Argentina is not deprived by nature of resources. Its people are as capable as any other. Why the seeming inability to keep the national finances in order?

    1. Bugs

      Corruption, tax evasion, nepotism, incompetent civil servants. Stir until done. I work with a team of people in B.A. About 30% of them are brainwashed Ayn Rand and Hayek (not Salma, lol) freaks. I don’t know how this stuff got so disseminated there. They see it as an intellectual stance in some way.

      On the flesh of the humble burro: I’ve eaten both hard sausage and pâté d’âne. Not much different from pork, maybe a little less iron aftertaste than pork or beef. The French cut the donkey meat with pork fat when making sausage and pâté so I didn’t get the full flavor of the meat. You see it mostly at rural markets and specialty shops.

      I find the donkey one of the most charming domestic animals so I am not proud of trying it.

    2. LY

      We’re seeing the resource curse being reinforced by ideology, elite greed, and bad policy.

      The fundamental mistake is the government borrowing in foreign currencies. Economic development is stymied by a lack of industrial policy, and the deep embrace of blood-letting quackery known as austerity.

    3. skippy

      Yes, it goes way back and its all about punitive debt that the nation can never rid itself of – See Hudson/Steve Hall. Actually the foreign-currency debt trap goes back around 200 yrs ago – 1824 was the crucial juncture, the Baring Brothers loan. They preyed on the expensive independence wars and, exacerbated by a crippling BoE interest rate hike in 1825, set the nation in an endless cycle of borrowing, default and renegotiation.

      Creditor class drama that won’t just go away with a new election cycle because of corruption.

  5. dearieme

    “I have never, at least knowingly, eaten donkey meat,”

    I have always been assured that Italian salami should include donkey meat.

    I can recommend kangaroo meat. This week we are going to try ostrich steaks. At Christmas we eat goose; it is excellent. Rabbit I find disappointing.

    I don’t understand why Americans don’t eat the best meat, to wit lamb.

    Anyhoo, from undergraduate days – at dinner one of us stood up and said “I’m going to complain”. He walked into the kitchen and said “Chef, I’m sorry to say that your beef is off.” Chef replied “It’s venison.”

    1. gk

      Stracotto d’Asino is a classic mantuan dish. You do have to cook it for a long time on a low flame, something these Argentinians may not have figured out.

    2. hereweare

      I’ve read that kangaoo meat is both tasty and ‘good’ in terms of fat and wotnot. In addition, kangaroos are adapted to Australia. They look after themselves, and some species thrive to the extent of being considered a pest by farmers. Yet instead of harvesting kangaroos, the farmers raise sheep and cattle, which aren’t at all adapted, and need water pumping up from depleting aquifers and so on.

      1. hk

        I’m assuming kangaroos aren’t halal? I’d heard that Australia is a major source of meat for Muslims worldwide. If you are ranching commercial, I suppose you have to raise what the market needs.

  6. .human

    We are going to continue cutting public spending to be able to continue lowering taxes because taxes are theft […]

    There you have it, straight from the donkey’s mouth :-) Spending on the public is theft.

  7. Morgan Everett

    I ate donkey once, maybe 15 years ago. Remember it tasting just fine. The people I was with adamantly refused to try it though, so I’d say at least among Americans there is a cultural bias against that is out of step with what the meat actually warrants.

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